1999 Ford Contour 2.0L Automatic DOHC Won't Start?

[jayt]

it may just need a kick in the pants. next time you try to start it use some starting fluid. see if that helps. you darn near checked everything except the fuel pressure regulator. and the ECM

[figo79vc]

Car stalled at stopsign, then started up and drove fine for 2 days. Car stalled again at stopsign. Car took 4 tries cranking to start then idled and drove erratically, rough with jerking and bucking, made it a block back to driveway. Looked for vacuum leaks, found and replaced valvecase to airbox hose which had a corroded hole. Started car, still rough at idle, vibrating, and rpm's would drop off until stall. Started up and put gas pedal down, rpm's increased but running rough. Finally car stalled, would not restart.

Troubleshooting:
-Had battery checked, it was bad, producing about 10v, enough to crank but weak, got it replaced (under warranty luckily)
-Car still would not start, but cranked faster.
-Replaced fuel filter. Tried blowing through old one, and very hard to blow though, car still would not start.
-Checked sparks at all 4 wires, good sparks.
-Checked compression, 150psi each cylinder
-Checked fuel injectors, good resistance at all injectors, connectors all had voltage, good test light on all four injectors.
- Pulled plugs after cranking and plugs wet with fuel
-Coil is good, checked and tried and returned a new one
-Checked fuel pressure, initially slow to build, pinched return line while cranking and car would not start. All this time not even catching or coughing at all.
-After this test, fuel pressure reached normal pressure 32PSI, and held at 26PSI per specs. While cranking as high as 40PSI.
-Rechecked vacuum hoses, found hose from PCV valve to intake manifold crimped and melted self blocking. Replaced that hose, still no start
-Just pulled IAC, good resistance. Put 12V across on correct terminals with test light, and no audible click heard, but with good resistance, doesn't seem too dirty, however can't be sure.

Had good spark so did not look at crankshaft position sensor. Timing belt looks good and had good compression anyway. Have not tried replacing camshaft position sensor yet but good resistance.

Out of ideas!
It could still be the FPR, it initially tested bad but then seems to have corrected itself, maybe it was sticking. I think it probably comes down to the computer.

[pedro7of9]

key words...plugs wet with fuel
1 plugs not firing.or not on time
2 or no compression as correct time..timing/timeing belt jumped