the order of the plates/spacers.? I took out the plates thinking the clutch was messed up but that doesn't seem to be the problem (Problem was with the engagement part of the cable). It worked fine before with no slipping so I know it's OK. Now since I confused the plates, I don't know which goes first or last, or if/where there are 2 friction plates in a row with no metal spacer ring between them. There are 5 (Five) black friction plates that are stamped T5, 4 (Four) black ones that are stamped T6, and 8 metal spacer rings. The friction plates have diagonal grooves on both sides. The metal spacers are identical, or appear to be.

Say I'm looking into the case with all the plates out. The piece is metal, one whole big piece that holds all the plates. What do I put in first? A metal spacer, then a friction plate? A friction plate then a spacer? A friction plate then another plate THEN a spacer? Basically IIRC the friction plates all have metal spacers between them except for one spot, where there should be 2 friction plates together (I think?). The bike is a 1983 kawasaki zx1100 GPz A1, 5 speed... I'm assuming there's some similarity with other bikes though.

I just need to know what to put in first, where to double up the friction plates, what to put in last (before the cover and springs). I tried a configuration or two but it slips a LOT even with the springs tightened all the way so I know it's not correct. Do the grooves in the friction plates have to be facing the same way or opposite (put in one way or flipped around)?

Also, should I have to tighten the springs all the way in the end?? They're a bit old but as I said they weren't slipping before I took them apart. Any advice about the engagement shaft/ball bearing is welcome too, but not necessary as I believe it's fine. I can run, shift, drive but I just don't know what order the plates should go to have the clutch hold when not engaged.

THANKS A LOT! I'm young and new at this, and was sold a lemon by a very unsavory guy, who scammed the paperwork to the point where although I got it registered, I have no paper with his name on it or any connection to him other than knowing his name so there's no hope for lemon laws. I'm willing to work but I'm frustrated, bleeding and I don't have the $$$$$ to just leave it in the shop, and it's my only vehicle too.... the manual is coming in the mail but not for another 2 weeks!!!

Thanks again!!! Even if you don't know the bike specifically, are there some general rules to 5 speed clutch plate order?? Any input is welcome!
Ok... so I also called around and asked some shops right before I got these answers from you guys. They gave me pretty much the same ones. Re-installed the plates, starting with friction then metal then friction etc. up until the last friction Total of 9 fric plates and 8 metal plates. Tightened the clutch springs solidly all the way but didn't torque them too hard. Put the whole cover back on, unfortunately the gasket is old and one of the old bolts cracked.

I carried on with the test. Adjusted my tension a little on the other side nut to get my clutch lever feeling ok. Started, shifted and let the clutch out, felt a bit loose but worked fine. SLOWLY pulled off in 1st, 2nd, 3rd..... gave it some gas and whhhhhhrrrrrrrrrrrr!!! clutch started smoking itself. So now I can get it to work, but pretty much any throttle application over 2500-3kRPM will immediately break the clutch loose. I tried to give the clutch disengagement nut some more play but then It jumps into gear and stalls.

So
Yahoo Glitch>? So anyway... I then tried different arrangements of plates, T5 ones first, T6 ones first, T5 alternating with T6 ones, alternating/reversing the order of the grooves in the plates.... same differences mostly, works but smokes the clutch under any real power.

I'm going to permanently engage the clutch by disconnecting the the disengage/cable attachment and push it into first gear, then power it through a gear or two and see if the clutch itself slips with no linkage. If it doesn't, which it didn't before, then I'm going to have to figure out which lousy part of the linkage is causing her to not hold the clutch fully engaged. What a technical crap-shoot... my tech manual is coming in 11-14 days and as I said, she's my only vehicle!

The only thing that was done differently prior to the issue was that I rode a 120lb kid on the back for 10-12 miles. I didn't thrash it or even put it through band, probably 7krpm at most and some engine braking. I'm afraid something old went