I have a 1995 kawasaki mule, will not stay running, and will usually not restart?

[Brian B]

Let's say the engine cranks and starts the normal way, choke engaged, disengage choke after engine is running. Will continue running for 15 minutes or so. Try to restart, ends up getting flooded. only way to restart is to disconnect fuel line from carberator and syphening fuel back to carb. Then reconnecting and the process starts over. I have an automotive background but no experience with carbs. any ideas or suggestions on where to start would be great

[MotoMan]

Since you say the engine "ends up getting flooded" the problem is in the carb. First place to check is the float needle. If any dirt gets between the needle and the seat, the needle will not close when the float bowl is full. This would be a good time to clean the carb and the air filter. Make sure all jets and air passages are clean enough to see light through, or blow clean air through.

However if the bike runs for a full 15 minutes before flooding, then the float needle is probably not the problem. Stuck float needles cause the carb to flood immediately, not after 15 minutes. The next thing to check is the cold start circuit. In the case of the mule this is a simple choke. Make sure the choke will open completely when it is turned off. Also you need to check the idle air (pilot) screw. This can cause the engine to run rich enough to stall the engine and possibly flood it too. Begin by turning the screw in until it bottoms out. Count the number of turns it takes to bottom out. Then back out the screw 1 1/2 turns.

To set the pilot screw, warm up the engine and adjust the screw in until the engine dies. Count the number of turns in from 1 1/2 until it dies. Set screw back at 1 1/2 out and start the engine again. Back out the screw slowly until the engine dies; count the number of turn out from 1 1/2. Then set the idle air/pilot screw halfway between the settings where the engine died. Compare this to the initial setting before you began adjusting the screw. Ride the bike to see if this makes any difference.

If the engine runs rich it will have a blubbering throttle response. There is a little hesitation before accelerating. It will also be hard to start when hot. If the engine is running lean it will run hot, and pop a lot after the throttle is closed. Also it will be hard to start when cold. Next buy a shop manual that has step by step diagnostics.

[MotoMan]

Since you say the engine "ends up getting flooded" the problem is in the carb. First place to check is the float needle. If any dirt gets between the needle and the seat, the needle will not close when the float bowl is full. This would be a good time to clean the carb and the air filter. Make sure all jets and air passages are clean enough to see light through, or blow clean air through.

However if the bike runs for a full 15 minutes before flooding, then the float needle is probably not the problem. Stuck float needles cause the carb to flood immediately, not after 15 minutes. The next thing to check is the cold start circuit. In the case of the mule this is a simple choke. Make sure the choke will open completely when it is turned off. Also you need to check the idle air (pilot) screw. This can cause the engine to run rich enough to stall the engine and possibly flood it too. Begin by turning the screw in until it bottoms out. Count the number of turns it takes to bottom out. Then back out the screw 1 1/2 turns.

To set the pilot screw, warm up the engine and adjust the screw in until the engine dies. Count the number of turns in from 1 1/2 until it dies. Set screw back at 1 1/2 out and start the engine again. Back out the screw slowly until the engine dies; count the number of turn out from 1 1/2. Then set the idle air/pilot screw halfway between the settings where the engine died. Compare this to the initial setting before you began adjusting the screw. Ride the bike to see if this makes any difference.

If the engine runs rich it will have a blubbering throttle response. There is a little hesitation before accelerating. It will also be hard to start when hot. If the engine is running lean it will run hot, and pop a lot after the throttle is closed. Also it will be hard to start when cold. Next buy a shop manual that has step by step diagnostics.

[MotoMan]

Since you say the engine "ends up getting flooded" the problem is in the carb. First place to check is the float needle. If any dirt gets between the needle and the seat, the needle will not close when the float bowl is full. This would be a good time to clean the carb and the air filter. Make sure all jets and air passages are clean enough to see light through, or blow clean air through.

However if the bike runs for a full 15 minutes before flooding, then the float needle is probably not the problem. Stuck float needles cause the carb to flood immediately, not after 15 minutes. The next thing to check is the cold start circuit. In the case of the mule this is a simple choke. Make sure the choke will open completely when it is turned off. Also you need to check the idle air (pilot) screw. This can cause the engine to run rich enough to stall the engine and possibly flood it too. Begin by turning the screw in until it bottoms out. Count the number of turns it takes to bottom out. Then back out the screw 1 1/2 turns.

To set the pilot screw, warm up the engine and adjust the screw in until the engine dies. Count the number of turns in from 1 1/2 until it dies. Set screw back at 1 1/2 out and start the engine again. Back out the screw slowly until the engine dies; count the number of turn out from 1 1/2. Then set the idle air/pilot screw halfway between the settings where the engine died. Compare this to the initial setting before you began adjusting the screw. Ride the bike to see if this makes any difference.

If the engine runs rich it will have a blubbering throttle response. There is a little hesitation before accelerating. It will also be hard to start when hot. If the engine is running lean it will run hot, and pop a lot after the throttle is closed. Also it will be hard to start when cold. Next buy a shop manual that has step by step diagnostics.

[MotoMan]

Since you say the engine "ends up getting flooded" the problem is in the carb. First place to check is the float needle. If any dirt gets between the needle and the seat, the needle will not close when the float bowl is full. This would be a good time to clean the carb and the air filter. Make sure all jets and air passages are clean enough to see light through, or blow clean air through.

However if the bike runs for a full 15 minutes before flooding, then the float needle is probably not the problem. Stuck float needles cause the carb to flood immediately, not after 15 minutes. The next thing to check is the cold start circuit. In the case of the mule this is a simple choke. Make sure the choke will open completely when it is turned off. Also you need to check the idle air (pilot) screw. This can cause the engine to run rich enough to stall the engine and possibly flood it too. Begin by turning the screw in until it bottoms out. Count the number of turns it takes to bottom out. Then back out the screw 1 1/2 turns.

To set the pilot screw, warm up the engine and adjust the screw in until the engine dies. Count the number of turns in from 1 1/2 until it dies. Set screw back at 1 1/2 out and start the engine again. Back out the screw slowly until the engine dies; count the number of turn out from 1 1/2. Then set the idle air/pilot screw halfway between the settings where the engine died. Compare this to the initial setting before you began adjusting the screw. Ride the bike to see if this makes any difference.

If the engine runs rich it will have a blubbering throttle response. There is a little hesitation before accelerating. It will also be hard to start when hot. If the engine is running lean it will run hot, and pop a lot after the throttle is closed. Also it will be hard to start when cold. Next buy a shop manual that has step by step diagnostics.

[MotoMan]

Since you say the engine "ends up getting flooded" the problem is in the carb. First place to check is the float needle. If any dirt gets between the needle and the seat, the needle will not close when the float bowl is full. This would be a good time to clean the carb and the air filter. Make sure all jets and air passages are clean enough to see light through, or blow clean air through.

However if the bike runs for a full 15 minutes before flooding, then the float needle is probably not the problem. Stuck float needles cause the carb to flood immediately, not after 15 minutes. The next thing to check is the cold start circuit. In the case of the mule this is a simple choke. Make sure the choke will open completely when it is turned off. Also you need to check the idle air (pilot) screw. This can cause the engine to run rich enough to stall the engine and possibly flood it too. Begin by turning the screw in until it bottoms out. Count the number of turns it takes to bottom out. Then back out the screw 1 1/2 turns.

To set the pilot screw, warm up the engine and adjust the screw in until the engine dies. Count the number of turns in from 1 1/2 until it dies. Set screw back at 1 1/2 out and start the engine again. Back out the screw slowly until the engine dies; count the number of turn out from 1 1/2. Then set the idle air/pilot screw halfway between the settings where the engine died. Compare this to the initial setting before you began adjusting the screw. Ride the bike to see if this makes any difference.

If the engine runs rich it will have a blubbering throttle response. There is a little hesitation before accelerating. It will also be hard to start when hot. If the engine is running lean it will run hot, and pop a lot after the throttle is closed. Also it will be hard to start when cold. Next buy a shop manual that has step by step diagnostics.

[MotoMan]

Since you say the engine "ends up getting flooded" the problem is in the carb. First place to check is the float needle. If any dirt gets between the needle and the seat, the needle will not close when the float bowl is full. This would be a good time to clean the carb and the air filter. Make sure all jets and air passages are clean enough to see light through, or blow clean air through.

However if the bike runs for a full 15 minutes before flooding, then the float needle is probably not the problem. Stuck float needles cause the carb to flood immediately, not after 15 minutes. The next thing to check is the cold start circuit. In the case of the mule this is a simple choke. Make sure the choke will open completely when it is turned off. Also you need to check the idle air (pilot) screw. This can cause the engine to run rich enough to stall the engine and possibly flood it too. Begin by turning the screw in until it bottoms out. Count the number of turns it takes to bottom out. Then back out the screw 1 1/2 turns.

To set the pilot screw, warm up the engine and adjust the screw in until the engine dies. Count the number of turns in from 1 1/2 until it dies. Set screw back at 1 1/2 out and start the engine again. Back out the screw slowly until the engine dies; count the number of turn out from 1 1/2. Then set the idle air/pilot screw halfway between the settings where the engine died. Compare this to the initial setting before you began adjusting the screw. Ride the bike to see if this makes any difference.

If the engine runs rich it will have a blubbering throttle response. There is a little hesitation before accelerating. It will also be hard to start when hot. If the engine is running lean it will run hot, and pop a lot after the throttle is closed. Also it will be hard to start when cold. Next buy a shop manual that has step by step diagnostics.

[MotoMan]

Since you say the engine "ends up getting flooded" the problem is in the carb. First place to check is the float needle. If any dirt gets between the needle and the seat, the needle will not close when the float bowl is full. This would be a good time to clean the carb and the air filter. Make sure all jets and air passages are clean enough to see light through, or blow clean air through.

However if the bike runs for a full 15 minutes before flooding, then the float needle is probably not the problem. Stuck float needles cause the carb to flood immediately, not after 15 minutes. The next thing to check is the cold start circuit. In the case of the mule this is a simple choke. Make sure the choke will open completely when it is turned off. Also you need to check the idle air (pilot) screw. This can cause the engine to run rich enough to stall the engine and possibly flood it too. Begin by turning the screw in until it bottoms out. Count the number of turns it takes to bottom out. Then back out the screw 1 1/2 turns.

To set the pilot screw, warm up the engine and adjust the screw in until the engine dies. Count the number of turns in from 1 1/2 until it dies. Set screw back at 1 1/2 out and start the engine again. Back out the screw slowly until the engine dies; count the number of turn out from 1 1/2. Then set the idle air/pilot screw halfway between the settings where the engine died. Compare this to the initial setting before you began adjusting the screw. Ride the bike to see if this makes any difference.

If the engine runs rich it will have a blubbering throttle response. There is a little hesitation before accelerating. It will also be hard to start when hot. If the engine is running lean it will run hot, and pop a lot after the throttle is closed. Also it will be hard to start when cold. Next buy a shop manual that has step by step diagnostics.

[MotoMan]

Since you say the engine "ends up getting flooded" the problem is in the carb. First place to check is the float needle. If any dirt gets between the needle and the seat, the needle will not close when the float bowl is full. This would be a good time to clean the carb and the air filter. Make sure all jets and air passages are clean enough to see light through, or blow clean air through.

However if the bike runs for a full 15 minutes before flooding, then the float needle is probably not the problem. Stuck float needles cause the carb to flood immediately, not after 15 minutes. The next thing to check is the cold start circuit. In the case of the mule this is a simple choke. Make sure the choke will open completely when it is turned off. Also you need to check the idle air (pilot) screw. This can cause the engine to run rich enough to stall the engine and possibly flood it too. Begin by turning the screw in until it bottoms out. Count the number of turns it takes to bottom out. Then back out the screw 1 1/2 turns.

To set the pilot screw, warm up the engine and adjust the screw in until the engine dies. Count the number of turns in from 1 1/2 until it dies. Set screw back at 1 1/2 out and start the engine again. Back out the screw slowly until the engine dies; count the number of turn out from 1 1/2. Then set the idle air/pilot screw halfway between the settings where the engine died. Compare this to the initial setting before you began adjusting the screw. Ride the bike to see if this makes any difference.

If the engine runs rich it will have a blubbering throttle response. There is a little hesitation before accelerating. It will also be hard to start when hot. If the engine is running lean it will run hot, and pop a lot after the throttle is closed. Also it will be hard to start when cold. Next buy a shop manual that has step by step diagnostics.

[MotoMan]

Since you say the engine "ends up getting flooded" the problem is in the carb. First place to check is the float needle. If any dirt gets between the needle and the seat, the needle will not close when the float bowl is full. This would be a good time to clean the carb and the air filter. Make sure all jets and air passages are clean enough to see light through, or blow clean air through.

However if the bike runs for a full 15 minutes before flooding, then the float needle is probably not the problem. Stuck float needles cause the carb to flood immediately, not after 15 minutes. The next thing to check is the cold start circuit. In the case of the mule this is a simple choke. Make sure the choke will open completely when it is turned off. Also you need to check the idle air (pilot) screw. This can cause the engine to run rich enough to stall the engine and possibly flood it too. Begin by turning the screw in until it bottoms out. Count the number of turns it takes to bottom out. Then back out the screw 1 1/2 turns.

To set the pilot screw, warm up the engine and adjust the screw in until the engine dies. Count the number of turns in from 1 1/2 until it dies. Set screw back at 1 1/2 out and start the engine again. Back out the screw slowly until the engine dies; count the number of turn out from 1 1/2. Then set the idle air/pilot screw halfway between the settings where the engine died. Compare this to the initial setting before you began adjusting the screw. Ride the bike to see if this makes any difference.

If the engine runs rich it will have a blubbering throttle response. There is a little hesitation before accelerating. It will also be hard to start when hot. If the engine is running lean it will run hot, and pop a lot after the throttle is closed. Also it will be hard to start when cold. Next buy a shop manual that has step by step diagnostics.